And then there’s this guy, who is presented as a bit of an oddity, but to me seems like the seeing man in the valley of the blind: he’s sane
I’ve been thinking about this sort of thing recently: live like a king, die without a penny. The federal government is devaluing the currency (just wait until the “stimulus” gets turned into ten times that amount in debt! I hope they find that the public isn’t buying it) perhaps faster than what you can earn in interest. What if traditional retirement (ie save up enough to live on the interest) won’t work in the future?
Just something that’s been percolating for me.
One plan I’m considering is simply not accumulating any assets, only perhaps some use-able commodities. What else can have value but not be considered an asset? What cannot be looted by lawyers or the IRS? Goodwill with a local farmer? A skill that can be turned into cash easily (bike repairman)? Loyal children with good jobs? There’s your social security. Is there a commodity that has a shelf-life of 20+ years that can be both consumed, sold or traded with relative ease? Deodorant, Soap, Propane?
Right now I have a negative net worth. A bum walking down the road who picks up a $0.05 can and puts it in his bag is richer than me. His net worth is “positive one nickel”.
I think you’re starting to get a little paranoid about these economic things… The United States has been in debt since WW2… If the United States crumbles… burdened by debt… you’re not going to have to worry about someone taking your assets… Besides only reading what the doom and gloomers are saying perhaps you should look at what other economists are saying as well? Carpe Diem is a blog that only sees good news in the economy (I know, I find it hard to believe as well)
The best thing you can do is keep your personal finances in order… That means paying off that debt and then, if you’re sure, the whole FED and Federal govt. is a scam to invest in real assets. Property and commodities… Just make sure you own them…
If you want to be really paranoid, and about something that will probably happen before the US collapses under it’s debt… start looking into what peak oilers are saying: Cheap credit depends on cheap energy. Our culture is dependent on cheap energy. Cheap energy is a thing of the past.
Enjoying the site and the videos… I’ll be a customer as soon as my own personal debt is paid off!
I really appreciate feedback on the blog. I am open to differing viewpoints. I would like to air various sides of an issue. If what I write is unfounded, then let’s hear why.
The only thing I would take mild issue with is the use of the work “paranoid”. That means that someone is imagining danger when there is none: an unreasonable fear. I maintain that my concerns are well-founded, and if anything, the majority of Americans are suffering from the opposite of paranoia: there are dangers that are not being recognized. This is not tin-foil-hat-conspiracy-theory. It’s everyday stuff that profoundly affects the well-being of common citizens.
Here are some additional thoughts:
Don’t drink the water from the pool the Banks have created. It is poison. It will hurt you. You don’t need their “products” (so-called). There is a better and healthier way. This from the guy who likes Twinkies! But you get my point.
My sincere hope is that some readers will start looking at things differently. Through my experience as a business owner my life view has changed. I have felt the heavy hand of government. That they can destroy a small business or destroy someone’s life, liberty and property is not some imagined threat. It is real. It has already happened to me. I managed to survive. But now that the sharks have ripped off one of my feet, I am much more careful as I swim in the water nowadays.
What hurts small business hurts the workers. That really bothers me.
Through this experience I started to read more and more on politics. Then I dug down to a layer where it was clear that I had to read more about economics and banking. I’m no expert. The more I read, the less informed I feel. However, the study of it has given me ideas for my business, and helped me to understand how things work.
I no longer wish to trade glass beads for my life essence.
I once read a book called “The Religion Worth Having”. The thesis of the book was that there is a way-the-universe-actually-is and that the more that a religion, or an individual, or a society conformed to the actual and real laws of that universe the more successful it would be. A ship can’t vote it’s way around the Strait of Magellan. It must have accurate maps and follow sound nautical principles. I think the founding fathers referred to this as “natural law”. That’s sort of a blank area for me right now.
PS- some have noticed that I have comments turned off on my blog. I prefer to have people email me comments and then to post them.
- You get free shipping for your projects.
- During the course of the five to ten months we will make at least five videos related to your projects or dedicated/useful to you somehow.
- You get two shots of free shipping for Forge World stuff (we will cover for shipping, but you cover models).
I ended up proxying out several ideas and looking at a lot of the Tau lists that are posted on the internet I think the reasons folks underestimate the Tau are sevenfold -
1. They insist on running with loads of firewarriors as their troop base instead of kroot. Firewarriors are really NOT good. At range firewarriors do ok, but once folks start closing they must embark the devilfish and move away or die.
2. They forget to add in a bunch of kroot hounds (the punch in the list) to the kroot. I think this is largely because the models aren’t particularly sweet and being metal, are so expensive. Having said that, it’s NO excuse as there are SO many other alternatives (WFB chaos wolves, flesh hounds of Khorne [just as expensive but better looking], the wolves from Goblin Wolf riders (don’t know if this would work as I’ve never seen the set), Vampire Count Dire wolves [i’m sure some theme could work], heck maybe even get creative with a box of tyranids).
3. They equip their battlesuits with fusion and flamers following the thought that melta and template are 5e essentials for SM, CSM, IG, Eldar etc… This takes the battlesuit away from its core competency – long range death with a move that allows you to constantly stay out of range of basic infantry. JSJ allows you to essentially move 12″ while firing. Since every battlesuit you buy will generally have a misslepod, there should be no transports either.
4. They overload on stealth suits (cause they look cool) without realizing that battlesuits can generally do it better and cheaper (except markerlights).
5. They buy stealth suits to use as markerlight carriers without realizing that pathfinders can do it better and cheaper (plus you can use the devilfish for your fire warriors).
6. Adding stealth suits takes elite spots (the firepower of the tau) and keeps you from having full complement of battlesuits. i think you want 1-3 fireknife groups (plasma, missle and multi-tracker), 0-2 deathrain groups (twin linked missle pods with either target array or flamer), and 0-2 firestorm (burstcannon, plasma, and mult-tracker). I think commander(s) should always be fireknife (I hear airbursting frag is pretty decent too though, maybe with a misslepod…). Fireknife eat marines, terminators, transports and characters. Deathrain = transport death, Firestorm = death to infantry.
7. They use vespids because they were cool in Dawn of War even though they could be the most useless unit outside of Necron Pariahs.
8. They steer away from piranhas with a fusion blaster because a SM landspeeder is about the same price but has better BS, equiv defense (doesn’t count as open top), and probably has a secondary weapon liek a HF thrown in as well. However, by doing so they take away their fastest unit (and fastest anti-mech unit). The points shouldn’t be compared on a relative basis, but rather on a what it brings to your army basis…
Anyway rant over…
[Up at 4am again]
Today we played our first game of Hordes. Renn’s Trollbloods vs Brigh’s Orboros “Solid Stone” force. I didn’t record it mostly on account of some unpainted figures (I wouldn’t want your delicate eyes being sullied by white primer). Brigh’s army is a tough nut to crack and I think the learning curve is steep. We all learned a lot about how the game is played.
Hordes is more like a game of gladiatorial combat than a wargame of battlefield tactics. It’s very rich and complex. I plan on doing some how-to videos.
For my part I managed to paint a unit of Ferox Riders (guys on sabre-tooth tigers), a Cyclops Shaman and a Basilisk Krea. I am holding off on pictures until the entire force is done, 858 points in total. I painted the Krea a lime-green which really makes it look like a toad. Is that a bad thing? Well, I like it.
The typical game of Hordes is played at 750 pts. That’s like a 2000 point game of Warhammer.
Here’s how to use them (or just email me a list):
I’ve been hunting around for more information on this topic. I found this potent article:
The essential part that I’m trying to verify is if the “reserve” is a portion of the total deposits (what we’re taught in “It’s a Wonderful Life” and what most people believe), or if the “reserve” is the base amount of the deposit and the remainder is conjured out of thin air. Naturally, if the latter is true, then there is a great motivation to keep that under wraps and perpetuate the former idea in the minds of the masses.
Here are some of the Skorne I’ve painted up so far. Point-wise it’s about half-way through. Um, but really not truly half-way, just trying to keep my steam up. The tradition Skorne colors are brass and red (sound familiar?). But I decided to go with this green-turquoise color. I think it’s working.
Colors used, all Vallejo:
After I take pics I see all sorts of flaws that need to be smoothed out. Things not visible in person. It’s really unfair.
Hey all. Here is how to set up a commission. I have updated this. Notably, I got rid of the old Tank Factory special and replaced it with the “get one painted, get another painted free” type special from recent months (minimum three pairs = six vehicles). That one is a better deal and more accessible.
Also note the Trade-in deal also allows you the option to just get regular kits (not assembled or painted) shipped to you, as well as getting your models assembled/painted. See below for details.
Thanks for your inquiry.
Getting a Quote
As a general rule of thumb it costs $500-1200 per 1000 points in an army. This is if we provide everything (models, assembly, and painting). This varies based on a number of factors, mostly the quality of painting you choose. If you just want painting only (ie you have your models already assembled) the cost is about half of that.
Attached is a spreadsheet outlining all costs of your project. Or you can download a generic sheet for your army here.
Here is a video on how to use the spreadsheet. You do not have to fill this out yourself. I will be happy to work from an emailed list.
You have three options to get a quote:
A) Fill out the sheet yourself This spreadsheet will auto-calculate all costs associated with your commission. If you are providing and/or assembling your own models you will naturally zero out those totals.
B) Send a list of what you’d like done. What models need assembly? Cleaning? What models are you providing? What models would you like us to provide? I’ll send back a detailed quote.
C) Call me and I will set everything up over the phone with you. 801 372 8545.
We have several specials available. Only one can be applied.
1) Level 2—models can be given a basic paint job. Save 30% off painting.
2) Artistic License—we decide completely how a project is painted and based. Save 10% on painting.
3) Combine Level 2 and Artistic License. Save 35% off painting
4) Tank Factory—Get three tanks painted and get three painted free. See below for details.
5) Tradein—trade in your current range (in print) kits and models as part of your payment. This can be combined with other specials. Details below.
Scheduling a Project
This project will be scheduled officially for completion in 25-35 days. If you need your project for an event (like a tournament), please make that known, we can often accommodate that.
To schedule a project, we need the following things:
1) The models (or a list of models to be acquired).
2) A deposit as indicated on the Project Breakdown spreadsheet
a. Pay by phone with major Credit Card 801 372 8545
b. Pay via Paypal to firstname.lastname@example.org
c. Pay by MO (see website Service Guide for details)
3) The Instructions .doc sheet filled out and returned.
Terms of Service
I would recommend that you look over our Service Guide .
Minimum Run Size
Generally speaking, Levels 2-4 are reserved for whole units of models or vehicles/monsters. Levels 5-6 are for individual hero types.
Also keep up to date with our Daily Blog: http://www.bluetablepainting.blogspot.com/ I keep that updated almost daily.
I’d be interested to know how you heard of Blue Table.
If you want to contact me for any reason:
Email at email@example.com
Phone number is (801) 372-8545
Facebook ID is bluetablepainting http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=633040196
Google Chat ID is bluetablepainting
PS- if you have any problem with the spreadsheet, just let me know—I can send the quote as in-line text.
Tank Factory Special
Here are the details– they must be in pairs. There must be at least three pairs (six vehicles). You can’t have a two chimeras painted regular price and then get two baneblades done for free. But you could have a chimera and a baneblade done then get two more of the same done free. Tanks don’t need to be the exact same to count as a pair, just similar (so you could pair up a Hellhound and a Chimera).
All the vehicles in a project need to be roughly the same color scheme. Doesn’t apply to Forge World. Must ask for the special by name before the project is underway. Normal assembly rates apply.
Here are the trade-in rates for Spring/Summer 2009. I’m offering service credit in trade for models (you can also get kits, see below). Read this completely as I have recently improved almost every aspect of this program! .
You can usually get a much better deal going to the secondary market (local shop, ebay) on your own. However, the advantage of trading in with us is that you are likely to be able to unload disparate items without a lot of hassle (e.g. finding various buyers, setting up payment, lots of minor questions). .
If you want to trade in, we need a list with retail values and condition (e.g. new in box, new on sprue, assembled, primed). The rates below are a multiplier. If the entry says 0.30 it means you would get $30 for $100 worth of retail items. Just take the retail total and multiply it by the number. You do not need to figure this out; you can just send in your list of stuff to firstname.lastname@example.org .
In the past I have only allowed for half or less of a project to be paid in credit this way. But for the time being I am lifting that restriction. . I just know there’s someone who goes out to their garage, surveys the mass of unpainted models, sighs then turns out the light. This program will hopefully allow someone with the “white primer horde” to finally show up with a painted army. As an added bonus, your models will get a good home where they will be painted and loved. .
We don’t need painted figures. Exception: if they only have a little bit done with them; not too thick, not too many layers. Primed models are OK, again not too thick. .
You can also get a credit of at least $10 to help with your shipping costs. This is on request. .
If you want to trade-in figures, but don’t have a project ready, that’s OK, I will confirm your total and then you will have it on tap for when you want to use it. .
This trade-in is recorded as a payment on your project. It is non-refundable except at our discretion (eg you can’t refuse the project and then get your trade-in amount refunded as cash). Trade-in can be applied to cost of models, assembly or painting as you wish. This means you can also just get models sent to you (this is limited to models that are commonly available, eg not Forge World)..
Generally, we only need in-print models that are currently in production. .
These rates and conditions may change so it is recommended to check in every once in a while. I am likely to update the numbers about once a month. The plan right now is to update every first of the month. Fairness is the guiding principle. .
Forge World 0.49 . Assault on Black Reach Models:
Complete set of orks $9 credit
Complete set of space marines $9 credit
Space Marine Dreadnought $5 credit
Small rulebook $5 credit
Template sprue (complete) $3 credit . Chaos Space Marines 0.23 . Daemonhunters 0.20 . Daemons of Chaos 0.29 . Eldar 0.20 . Imperial Guard 0.35 . Necrons 0.20 . Orks 0.25 . Space Marines 0.35 . Tau 0.25 . Tyranids 0.26 . Witch Hunters 0.21 . Warhammer Fantasy 0.25 . Hordes 0.25 . War Machine 0.25 . Battlefleet Gothic 0.11 . Lord of the Rings 0.17